The Elephant and Butter

The aforementioned Chip Brantley has published a superb Robert Bresson/cooking article on Gourmet's website. You should probably check it out before the magazine shuts down entirely in some weeks, forcing food bloggers all over the nation to re-make Gourmet's old recipes over and over again in one giant, gauzily-photographed feedback loop. For perspective on Gourmet's demise, see here.